kitchen rap

• site sights!
• in the spotlight… baking pies
• Kathleen Sloan McIntosh's the great Canadian grill
• from Kathleen's recipe box… Thai barbecued flank steak
• from Kathleen's recipe box… Cuban lobster tails with chipotle mojo
• from Kathleen's recipe box… tomato, mushroom & avocado in lemon Dijon vinaigrette
• from the Robin Hood recipe box… rosemary garlic bread sticks
• publishing and subscription information

We're extremely pleased to announce that Golda's Kitchen will be opening a retail store at the Heartland Town Centre in Mississauga, Ontario in the very near future. Located at 700 Matheson Boulevard West at the corner of Mavis Road, minutes from both Highways 401 and 403, the store will feature over 2,000 square feet of retail space and a fully-equipped demonstration kitchen. We'll be offering an expanded selection of products (which will also be featured online), including KitchenAid countertop appliances, Denby tableware, Wusthof-Trident Culinar knives, and cookbooks by notable authors.

Watch for the announcement of our grand opening in the next issue of Kitchen Rap.

choosing a pie pan

Does the choice of pie pan really matter? Well, in some cases it does. For open pies (like lemon meringue) where the crust is blind-baked, there's ample opportunity for the crust to brown. For filled fruit pies - and especially for those with very juicy fillings, like blueberries - the choice of pie pan can impact the degree to which the bottom crust is properly baked and browned, or whether it turns out soggy.

Older pie pans, made of tin, are poor conductors of heat. Steel pie pans absorb and conduct heat beautifully. Dark steel pans help give a golden brown colour to pie crusts. Glass pie plates have excellent heat conductivity, with the added benefit of being able to look at the bottom crust to determine when it is nicely browned. Some pie pans are now available with perforated bottoms (like many pizza pans) which improves the transmission of heat to the bottom crust. Non-stick pans are great for when you want to slide the finished pie from the pan for serving -- which avoids the potential of marring the non-stick surface when cutting the pie. There's even a pan shaped like an apple, pumpkin, or cherry!

Pyrex glass 9"Dia × 1¼"D $4.75 each info 9½"Dia × 1½"D $5.50 each info	Chicago Metallic perforated steel commercial $14.25/pair info non-stick $9.50 each info	Wilton - Excelle non-stick steel $5.25 each more info
Steelmaid heavy gauge stainless steel 8"Dia × 1¼"D $15.25 each info 9½"Dia × 1½"D $19.00 each info 11"Dia × 1¾"D $22.75 each info 13½"Dia × 2"D $26.50 each info	Mason Cash set of 3 ceramic pie plates & pie funnel yellow 7" / green 9" / blue 11" $122.50/set more info	Wilton - Performance apple/cherry/peach/pumpkin shape aluminum $10.75 each more info

blind-baking a pie crust

Blind baking is when you prebake the bottom crust of a pie without a filling. If you have succeeded in preparing a flaky pie crust, it will need to be weighted when baked, otherwise the dough will puff up. Pricking the unbaked dough isn't enough, since the holes will close up as the dough starts to bake. The solution is to line the dough with parchment paper (a coffee filter also works great; avoid foil wrap as it doesn't allow the dough to breathe) and then fill it with rice, dried beans, or ceramic or stainless steel pie weights. Bake for 2/3rds of the time your recipe calls for, then lift out the parchment paper and the rice/beans/weights. Prick the crust all over with the tines of a fork, a roller docker, or the tines of your chocolate chipper and return the pie shell to the oven for the remainder of the baking time. You should check the pie shell every few minutes and re-prick the crust if air bubbles form under the dough.

ceramic pie weights 1 pound $8.00       more info	stainless steel pie chain 6 feet long $12.50       more info	roller docker $14.50       more info	chocolate chipper $28.50       more info

cutting steam vents

Have your pies ever come apart at the seams? This is likely due to the steam produced by bubbling fruit fillings as the pie bakes. In order to allow the steam to escape, cut steam vents into the top crust before baking. For many fillings, simply slashing the top crust in a few places with a knife is sufficient. For very juicy fillings, such as blueberries and cherries, this may not be sufficient. You are best to use a lattice top crust or cut larger holes which won't reseal. One solution is to cut the vent holes using small shaped pastry cutters; you can place the bits of dough which you removed back on top of the pie.

pie top cutters lattice $4.75 info apples $4.75 info hearts $4.75 info	pastry cutters set of 6 $6.75/set info set of 8 $8.50/set info 6 Christmas $6.75/set info	pastry cutters 6 animals $6.75/set info 6 leaves $7.50/set info 6 fruit $6.75/set info

baking a filled pie

A crisp crust results when all of the water present in a pie dough (including the water present in butter) evaporates. Baking at high temperature (400°F or more) or close to the heat source both help achieve a crisp crust. Depending on your oven, you may be able to bake your pie directly on the floor of the oven. In many ovens, however, the positioning of the heating element doesn't allow for you to do this. Instead, bake your pie on the lowest rack on top of a preheated baking stone or baking sheet.

baking stones 5/16" thick round, 13" $16.25 info rectangular, 13" × 15" $28.50 info rectangular, 14" × 16" $24.75 info	deluxe baking stones 9/16" thick round, 13" $31.25 info round, 16" $54.75 info rectangular, 14" × 16" $55.50 info	baking sheet $18.00       more info	pie crust shield $8.00       more info

Another option is to freeze your pie before baking it. Take your pie directly from the freezer and place it in the preheated oven (on the lowest rack, preferably on a preheated baking sheet; do not place the frozen pie on a baking stone as the stone may crack). You'll need to bake it longer than for a freshly-made pie, but the added time will help to fully bake the crust.

We're Canadian...therefore we grill -- all year! Neither snow, rain, hail or sub-zero temperatures will keep us from those primal flames. While we Canadians don't really need the hot weather months to make us want to get out there and grill, certainly summer is the definitive grilling season.

And while we're talking primal, let's look at that theory of male-dominated outdoor cookery in general. There are those who maintain that once cooking is performed in the great outdoor arena, it becomes man's domain. Guys who wouldn't dream of searing a steak or sauteeing a lamb chop indoors in their conventional kitchen, get all fired up about it when it becomes an outdoor proposition. Whether because it is perceived as a less formal and structured way of cooking that even the relatively unskilled can handle with elan, or because it makes them feel like the true hairy-chested he-men they really are...who knows?

Personally speaking, even though I wrote a book on the subject -- which I will now shamelessly plug, The Global Grill, and co-authored another, The Sticks & Stones Cookbook -- I have a confession to make: I rather like it when my new (!) husband says "want me to do the lamb chops on the 'cue tonight?" You betcha babe. With the extra time I can whip up something as a go-with that may be a little more interesting than a green salad (like the Tomato, Mushroom and Avocado Salad in Lemon Dijon Vinaigrette recipe below). Or I can sit back with a pina colada and enjoy his manly grilling action.

In summer, barbecues are an annual tradition whether they are held outdoors on patios, back decks, balconies or even indoors with smokeless grills, built-in grills or those great ribbed cast iron pans that give meats and vegetables those tantalizing grill marks.

And I do mean grilling, not barbecuing. Real barbecue is another delicious creature altogether, as anyone from Texas, Kansas, Tennessee or Alberta will be happy to point out. In North America, what most of us engage in is quick grilling. It involves less time and fuss and you can apply exotic ingredients and style that provide huge flavour and satisfaction. To paraphrase another great Canadian, I guess we're thinking globally and grilling locally. We're using an eclectic assortment of flavours borrowed from the international pantry to provide a strong international accent to favourite foods we grill. So, this summer encourage Dad in his outdoor culinary pursuits by presenting him with a collection of exotic spices, oils, sauces and seasonings, barbecue thermometers and a new apron. Crack him a cold one and partner as his sous chef in preparing the following repast which is a hip new version of surf & turf. And remember -- Father knows the grill best.

Until next month, cook and eat with love --

Kathleen Sloan McIntosh

Kathleen Sloan is a Toronto-born food writer whose work has appeared in major Canadian newspapers and magazines. Author of four cookbooks -- Rustic Italian Cooking, The Global Grill, The Sticks & Stones Cookbook (with Ted Reader) and The Wine Lover Cooks (with Tony Aspler) -- she lives with her beau and their black lab and assorted children who come and go, in Niagara wine country.

	grill pans cast iron square, 9¼" $19.00 info round, 12½" $29.50 info		temperature sensors reusable beef $9.50 each info poultry $9.50 each info fish $9.50 each info one of each $27.00/set info

Thai barbecued flank steak

Modern style, traditional flavors and perfectly grilled flank steak combine to make this a recipe with strong "man" appeal.

This could also be presented as an appetizer by serving the flank steak cut into thin strips and wrapped within rice paper rounds. These wraps are available in Asian markets or food shops. They are made from rice and water and sold either in circles or stacked wedges. They are tissue-paper-thin and dry and must be softened by dipping in hot water before using. Pat them dry with paper towels to absorb excess water.

Plan to make this the day before so the meat has a chance to marinate overnight.

Wine of choice -- Pinot Noir or Zinfandel

1. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, combine the sugar, lemongrass, garlic, soy sauces, oil and cornstarch. Whisk together to blend well. Lay flank steak in a shallow dish and cover the marinade. Turn the beef over once or twice, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or at least 8 hours.
2. When ready to grill, prepare the sauce by combining in a medium-sized bowl the fish sauce, vinegar, green onions, chili sauce, mint and coriander. Stir to blend ingredients thoroughly. Set to one side at room temperature.

3. Bring meat to room temperature before grilling. Preheat barbecue or grill to medium-high heat. Remove meat from marinade. Grill for about 5-8 minutes per side, or to desired doneness.
4. Transfer grilled steaks to wooden carving board and allow to rest for a minute before slicing thinly on the diagonal across the grain. Serve with steamed rice, vinegar-marinated fresh cucumber slices and the sauce.

Serves 6

Cuban lobster tails with chipotle mojo

Heavily influenced by Nuevo Latino cooking, these succulent lobster tails are quickly grilled and licked with a smoky chile and citrus mojo. If using frozen lobster tails, thaw before grilling.

To prevent the tail from curling while grilling, bend each one backward toward the shell and give it a good crack.

Wine of choice -- Riesling, Pinot Gris/Grigio or Gewurtztraminer

1. In a blender or food processor, combine the lemon and orange juice, orange zest, chipotles (and their sauce), brown sugar and salt. Process until smooth. With the motor running, add the olive oil gradually until fully incorporated and mixture is smooth. Pour into a small bowl and set to one side.
2. Preheat grill to medium-high heat. Using a sharp chef's knife, cut the lobster tails in half lengthwise to expose the meat. Brush some of the mojo vinaigrette onto the meat side of the lobster tails. Place meat side down on the grill. Grill for about 3 minutes. Turn tails meat side up and brush liberally with additional mojo vinaigrette, grilling for another 2 to 3 minutes, until meat is opaque.
3. Transfer lobster tails to serving platter. Serve immediately or at room temperature with the remaining mojo on the side.

Serves 4 - 6

tomato, mushroom & avocado in lemon Dijon vinaigrette

I have been making this delightful little salad for a very long time. It has stood me in good stead for many years. The Lemon Dijon Vinaigrette with which the vegetables are dressed has become my "house" dressing. It is the classic dressing for a simple salad of very fresh greens.

1. In a large bowl, whisk the oil with the fresh lemon juice. Add the Dijon, sugar, salt and black pepper and whisk to combine thoroughly. Taste to correct seasoning.
2. Tumble the grape tomatoes, mushrooms, avocado and parsley into the bowl. Toss gently to coat all the vegetables with the vinaigrette. Allow to sit for about 30 minutes, at room temperature, before serving.

Serves 4 - 6

rosemary garlic bread sticks

Whether you're headed for lunch by the lake, or having a simple barbecue dinner at home, Robin Hood's recipe for bread sticks is a tasty addition to any meal under the sun!

You can vary the amount of garlic to suit your own personal taste, and replace the rosemary with other herbs such as thyme, oregano, basil, or dill to complement your meal.

1. Dissolve sugar in warm water in large bowl. Sprinkle in yeast. Let stand 10 minutes, then stir well.
2. Stir in oil, salt, and 3 cups (750 mL) of flour. Beat with wooden spoon or electric mixer until smooth and elastic. If necessary, add more flour to make a soft dough which leaves sides of bowl. Turn out onto floured board. Round up into a ball.
3. Knead dough, adding more flour as necessary until smooth and no longer sticky (8 - 10 minutes). Place in lightly greased bowl. Turn dough to grease top. Cover with greased waxed paper and tea towel. Let rise in warm place (75°F - 85°F/24C - 29C) until doubled (45 - 60 minutes).
4. Punch down. Turn out onto lightly floured board and let rest for 10 minutes. Roll out dough to 16" × 8" (40 × 20 cm) rectangle. Combine topping ingredients. Spread mixture evenly over surface. Cut dough into 16 (1"/2.5 cm) strips. Pick up each stick by ends and twist in opposing directions. Place on a greased baking sheet, a parchment-lined baking sheet, or a baking sheet topped with a non-adherent baking mat.
5. Bake at 425°F (220C) on middle oven rack for 13 - 15 minutes, or until golden.

Recipe © 2000-2001, Robin Hood Multifoods Inc. Reprinted with permission. For more recipes, visit the Robin Hood website.

	Cuisinart hand mixer 9 speeds, count-up timer $84.00 more info		Regency kneading gloves nylon $7.50/pair more info