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kitchen rap

13 February 2002
volume 3 number 1


in the spotlight… adventures in learning

During these cold winter months, what better way to keep warm than to snuggle up in front of the fire with a cozy … cookbook!?! Why not! The winter months are an excellent time for reading a new cookbook, and most importantly, trying out new techniques and recipes, especially if you are stuck indoors during a snow storm. Here are some suggestions for a good winter's read:

The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook and Barefoot Contessa Parties! by Ina Garten

For more than twenty years, Ina Garten, owner of the acclaimed Barefoot Contessa specialty food store, has been cooking and baking extraordinary dishes for enthusiastic customers in the Hamptons. In these books, Ina shares secrets she has gleaned from her years not only as a caterer but as a dedicated party giver. Ina teaches us how to entertain with style, simplicity, and a relaxed sense of fun.

The Essential Cuisines of Mexico by Diana Kennedy
The New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden

Two updated editions of classic cookbooks -- one covering authentic Mexican recipes, the other the cuisines of the Middle East and North Africa. Both authors have travelled extensively throughout the respective regions and present traditional dishes and commentary.

Larousse Gastronomique

The ultimate reference book for all things culinary. It is the definitive reference for classic cooking techniques, as well as presenting a history of foods and food preparation, biographies of important culinary figures, a glossary of cooking terms and ingredients, and recommendations for cooking nearly everything.

Great Cakes and Great Pies & Tarts by Carole Walter

More than just cookbooks, these two books by Carole Walter are like having a cake and pastry teacher right in your kitchen. In addition to the excellent recipes, Carole precisely explains how to bake each cake and the basics of making dough.

In the Sweet Kitchen by Regan Daley

Regan Daley provides a comprehensive reference to baking ingredients, from the most basic to those that are extremely rare. Her recipes are straightforward, with simple techniques, focusing on quality ingredients to achieve delicious results.

Decorating Biscuits by Joanna Farrow

A beautiful collection of recipes, ideas, and instructions for creating cookies which are so lovely to look at, it may make you think twice before eating them. Joanna Farrow provides information on shaping, baking, and decorating cookies for just about every occasion.

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the way to a lover's heart…

Cook for 'em! Cooking is love in motion, especially when it is for the one we love.

If you are the one in your household who is usually on the receiving end of good cooking, this is the best time of the year to turn the tables by presenting a romantic dinner for the two of you. It doesn't have to be a complicated affair, but it should demonstrate how well you know your beloved by showcasing some of their absolute favourite foods.

Of course, any Valentine repast worth its salt should include a nod towards those typical edible aphrodisiacs -- asparagus with hollandaise, oysters, fresh chilies, fennel, celery, artichokes and, at dessert, a few fresh figs, toasted walnuts and a chocolate component, natch, are all suitable choices. But I am of the belief that, if you work it right, anything, even a good rendition of macaroni and cheese will work to turn their respective cranks. By that I mean cooking with passion and eating lustily with the object of your desire -- and maybe a little hot sauce on the side.

Some foods just seem to have a naturally seductive quality. Think of lengths of salmon fillet, briefly cooked, languishing over a crunchy celeriac salad or a magnificent marinated flank steak for two, seared and sliced across the grain into deliciously thin strips sided with some garlic mashed potatoes -- that works.

So, order a dozen oysters or so for you and your love to slurp with iced vodka or a reputable champagne. Then make this simple yet impressive little feast tailor-made for two. Make the potato gratin early in the day or even the night before and reheat before serving, if you wish. Set the scene with a dozen cream coloured roses, at least a dozen candles, quiet jazz and lots of attention in the right direction.

Until next month, cook and eat with love,

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh is a Toronto-born food writer whose work has appeared in major Canadian newspapers and magazines. Author of four cookbooks -- Rustic Italian Cooking, The Global Grill, The Sticks & Stones Cookbook (with Ted Reader) and The Wine Lover Cooks (with Tony Aspler) -- with two more on the way, she lives with her beau and their black lab and assorted children who come and go, in Niagara wine country.

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pan-fried veal chops with gremolata

Succulent veal chops need little in the way of embellishment. However, the gremolata adds a refreshing accent to complement the delicate flavour of the meat.

Wine of choice -- a well-chilled Pinot Gris

2    cloves garlic, minced
2 tbsp   chopped fresh parsley    25 ml
    zest of 1/2 lemon, finely minced
2 tbsp   olive oil   25 mL
2   veal rib or loin chops, cut 3/4 - 1" (2 - 2.5 cm) thick
    salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  1. Combine the garlic, parsley and lemon in a small bowl and toss together. Set to one side. Drizzle olive oil over both sides of the chops and season well with salt and pepper.
  2. Heat a skillet over high heat (add a little more oil if desired) and sear chops on both sides quickly.
  3. Reduce heat to medium-high and fry chops until slightly crusted and golden brown on each side, turning once or twice, about 12 minutes in total. Immediately before serving, add gremolata to each chop and serve.

Serves 2

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potato and leek gratin

Refined comfort food at its best (and leeks are supposed to be good for the libido!) -- don't stint on the butter for this recipe.

2 - 3 tbsp    butter    25 - 45 mL
1   clove garlic, minced
2 - 3   large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced
1   leek, trimmed, washed, thinly sliced
1   small egg, beaten
1-1/2 cups   table cream or half and half   375 mL
1/4 lb   Gruyere cheese, grated   125 g
pinch   nutmeg (freshly grated, if possible)
  1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180C).
  2. Combine butter and garlic in a microwavable dish. Heat in microwave until just melted. Use this mixture to grease a gratin dish. Layer potatoes and leeks in the dish, adding a little salt and pepper as you work.
  3. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and cream, add grated cheese and pour this mixture over the potatoes and leeks. Sprinkle with nutmeg.
  4. Line a baking tray with foil or parchment paper and set gratin dish in the centre. Bake for a little over an hour or until potatoes are tender and the surface is golden brown. Let sit for 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 2

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panna cotta with crushed pistachios

This makes two servings more than you actually need, but there is a very good chance you will each want more than one serving of this heavenly concoction. Panna cotta translates from the Italian as "cooked cream" -- a humble description for such an elegant sweet. Also lovely sitting in a pool of raspberry or chocolate sauce. Needs refrigeration time of at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours.

Wine of choice -- a chilled Vin Santo

2 cups    whipping cream    500 mL
1/2 cup   sugar    125 mL
1/2 tsp   pure vanilla extract   2 mL
1 envelope   gelatin
1/4 cup   finely chopped pistachios   50 mL
1 cup   brandy   250 mL
  1. In a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat, warm cream, sugar and vanilla, just until cream is beginning to ripple a little across the surface. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
  2. In a small bowl, combine the gelatin and 1/4 cup (50 mL) boiling water and let sit for 1 minute. Add another 1/4 cup (50 mL) boiling water to gelatin, stir well to dissolve gelatin and then add to the hot cream, stirring well.
  3. Pour mixture into ramekins or glass custard cups. Cool for a few minutes, then refrigerate for about 4 hours or overnight. To serve: run a thin-bladed, hot knife around the edge and turn out onto a dessert plate. Dust with crushed pistachios.

Note: spraying the cups with a little nonstick cooking spray will make serving easier.

Makes 16 cups

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Robin Hood: Helping You Bake Better coconut chocolate delights

This Valentine’s Day, fall in love with delicious coconut chocolate delights. Nothing tops the taste of rich chocolate and sweet coconut rolled into one treat. Every bite is filled with delight.

1/2 cup    Robin Hood All Purpose Flour    125 mL
1/3 cup   cocoa   75 mL
1   egg, beaten
1 can (12 oz)   sweetened condensed milk   340 mL
1 tbsp   butter   15 mL
1/4 tsp   almond extract   1 mL
1-1/2 cups   coconut, shredded   375 mL
  1. Combine flour and cocoa in top of a double boiler. Stir well to blend. Add egg and sweetened condensed milk; beat until smoothly blended. Cook over simmering water, stirring occasionally, until thick enough to hold its shape, about 15 minutes.
  2. Remove from heat; stir in butter and almond extract. Cool.
  3. Drop by teaspoonfuls into coconut. Toss in coconut and shape into balls.
  4. Chill for 1 hour or until firm. Store in airtight container in refrigerator.

Makes about 24 balls

Recipe © 2002, Robin Hood Multifoods Inc. Reprinted with permission.
For more recipes, see the Robin Hood Baking Festival Cookbook or visit the Robin Hood website.

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Golda's Kitchen Rap is published monthly by Golda's Kitchen Inc., www.GoldasKitchen.com. Contents © 2002 Golda's Kitchen Inc. All rights reserved. Golda's Kitchen and the Lady Design are trademarks of Golda's Kitchen Inc. All prices quoted herein are in Canadian dollars and are subject to applicable taxes; shipping and handling fees are additional. For more information about our policies, click here.   To obtain a free subscription for yourself or a friend, or to change the e-mail address to which this newsletter is delivered, click here. To stop receiving this newsletter, click here or send a message to newsletter@goldaskitchen.com with the subject line "unsubscribe". Our subscription list is not shared with any third party organizations.
 
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