kitchen rap

• on the chopping block
• new to the kitchen
• Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh's A Celtic Spring
• from Kathleen's recipe box… Beech Hill's Goat's Cheese Tart with Fresh Figs & Balsamic Beetroot Drizzle
• from Kathleen's recipe box… Scallop & Shrimp Sausages
• from Kathleen's recipe box… Nova Scotia Cranachan
• from the Robin Hood recipe box… Fruit Flan
• publishing and subscription information

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In the ancient Celtic calendar, May 1st has a great deal of significance. This date marks Beltaine, the spring equinox, a time to pay homage to all living things, to honour Mother Earth and the sun and celebrate the beginning of summer. This is one of four Celtic sabbats or fire festivals, so-called because traditionally they are celebrated by lighting huge bonfires. In some parts of Scotland and Ireland, pre-dawn fires are still lit on hillsides to herald the day. Upon rising, women are instructed to wash their faces with the first morning dew so as to receive the blessing of beauty.

I guess you can tell I am in the middle of work on my next book and it is devoted to traditional and contemporary Celtic foods. During the serious amount of research required for such a book, my husband Ted and I have travelled to all the Celtic communities throughout the world -- Scotland, Ireland, Wales, France's Brittany, Spain's Galicia and Canada's own Cape Breton. The overwhelming similarity of many of the foods and cooking styles have formed the inspiration for the book and it has been an incredible pleasure and wonderful learning experience to discover a whole new generation of talented chefs from all of these places.

Celtic culinary styles and foods come from the most honest of roots. While these roots may have formerly been maligned, misread and dismissed as peasant dishes not worthy of serious representation, these days there is undeniable proof that there is much more than fried fish, canned peas and boiled potatoes to this reputable collection of foods.

So, as a bright new spring season approaches and we shrug off this past winter's definitive chill and watch those bobbing robins on our soon-to-be green lawns, let's celebrate all the beauty of the burgeoning season with good food. With everything that is happening in the world, I think we need small daily celebrations more than ever to help us renew flagging spirits and keep the hope of peace alive.

I've chosen the following three recipes from my new book with celebratory spring buffets in mind. It is the season of (wedding) showers after all. Have a happy Beltaine!

Until next month, cook and eat with love,

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh is a Toronto-born food writer whose work has appeared in major Canadian newspapers and magazines. Author of six cookbooks -- Rustic Italian Cooking, The Global Grill, The Sticks & Stones Cookbook (with Ted Reader), The Wine Lover Cooks (with Tony Aspler), Great Potatoes: A Cook's Guide to Over 150 Delicious Recipes, and A Year in Niagara: The People and Food of Wine Country -- she lives with her beau and their black lab and assorted children who come and go, in Niagara wine country.

Beech Hill's Goat's Cheese Tart with Fresh Figs & Balsamic Beetroot Drizzle

Just outside the historic walled city of Derry (or Londonderry, as it is also known), is the grand Irish country house hotel called Beech Hill. Set in beautiful landscaped grounds, the hotel offers quiet comfort and excellent cuisine thanks to the work of head chef Philippe Petrani. Originally from Nice, France, Chef Petrani acquired fine training at a 3-star Michelin restaurant in his native France before working in Ireland. This recipe is inspired by one I enjoyed at Beech Hill. Make the balsamic-beetroot drizzle first and proceed with the tarts. Serve these tarts warm over a bed of dressed salad greens. A very pretty presentation with splendid flavour combinations.

Recommended: Sauvignon Blanc

1. Combine the beets with the balsamic vinegar in a food processor. Process until smooth. With the motor running gradually add the olive oil in a stream until completely incorporated. Transfer to a plastic squeeze bottle (or a measuring cup with a spout) and set to one side.
2. Preheat oven to 400°F (200C). Roll out the puff pastry to about 1-1/2 times its original size. Using a 6" (15 cm) pastry cutter, cut out 4 rounds. Line a baking sheet with a non-adherent baking mat (or spray with a little cooking spray or lightly butter) and transfer the rounds of pastry to it. Use a fork to prick the pastry in a few places then bake for about 15 - 20 minutes or until golden brown.
3. While the pastry is baking, combine the butter and oil in a sauté pan set over medium-high heat. Cook onion until softened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and set to one side.
4. Remove pastry from the oven. Divide onion mixture between the pastry rounds. Slice open each fig, keeping them connected, and place two in the centre of each pastry round. Add a slice of goat's cheese to each of the split figs. Preheat oven broiler to high and slip the tarts beneath it just to brown the cheese slightly. Have plates ready with dressed greens. Remove tarts from the oven and place one on each of the four plates. Drizzle the balsamic-beetroot dressing around the tart and serve immediately.

Serves 4

Scallop & Shrimp Sausages

Here is a sort of seafood boudin blanc, a variation on a dish we enjoyed in Brittany. Serve these with steamed baby potatoes, tiny peas and pearl onions -- that's how we had it in France. You will need a food processor for this recipe.

Recommended: Muscadet or Pinot Gris

1. In a large skillet, warm the oil and sauté 3/4 lb (375 g) of the shrimp for 1 minute, just until they turn pink. Remove with a slotted spoon to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, chop coarsely with a sharp chef's knife and set to one side.
2. Add the butter to the skillet and melt over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and shallot and sauté for about 3 minutes until softened. Transfer this mixture to the bowl of a food processor. Add breadcrumbs, remaining uncooked shrimp, scallops, salt, chili sauce, lemon zest, and chives. Pulse the mixture a few times until it is puréed. Add the egg whites to the mixture and pulse again to incorporate. Start adding the cream through the feed tube as the motor is running to achieve a thick purée. You may not use all the cream.
3. Using a spatula, scrape the mixture into a bowl and stir in the sautéed chopped shrimp. Cut heavy aluminum foil into 6 pieces, about 6" × 8" (15 cm × 20 cm) each. Butter the inside of the foil and divide the seafood mixture onto each piece, placing it lengthwise down the centre of each piece. Roll up and seal the ends by folding up and pinching together.
4. Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Add the foil-wrapped sausages and lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Cover the pot and simmer the sausages for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sausages stand in the water for another 10 minutes.
5. Remove from the water with tongs and carefully unwrap each. (You can keep them warm at this point in a lightly buttered dish. Cover with waxed paper and cover with a lid.) Serve by slicing each one into rounds and placing overlapping on a dish with the recommended accompaniments as described above.

Serves 6

Nova Scotia Cranachan

This simple but delicious dessert takes its inspiration from the oat-eating tradition beloved by Celts. To make it truly memorable, drizzle with a little good single malt Scotch just before serving. To toast oatmeal, spread it out on a baking sheet and place in a moderate oven until golden brown, about 10 - 15 minutes, checking it now and then to make sure it is not browning too quickly or too much. When raspberries or blackberries are plentiful, they work wonderfully well here.

• Whip the cream until fairly stiff peaks form. Gently fold in the icing sugar, vanilla and oatmeal. Spoon mixture into 4 individual serving dishes and top with fresh berries. Drizzle with whisky if using. Serve immediately.

Serves 4

Fruit Flan

Berry lovers – and you know who you are – the anticipation is over! This fruit flan combines all of your favourite fruits on a light and fluffy flan. Strawberries, kiwi, raspberries, blueberries, grapes, peaches – you decide.

1. For the pastry, combine flour and icing sugar. Cream butter and gradually blend in flour mixture until smooth.
2. Press evenly on bottom and sides of 9" (23 cm) tart pan; prick well with fork and chill 15 minutes.
3. Bake at 425°F (220C) for 7 to 10 minutes or until light golden. Cool thoroughly.
4. For the filling, beat cream cheese, icing, sugar and vanilla together until smooth. Whip cream until stiff and fold into cheese mixture.
5. Spread evenly in baked crust. Cover with fruit.
6. Serve immediately, or if desired melt jam and lemon juice together until smooth and brush over fruit. Serve at room temperature for maximum flavour.

Recipe © 2003, Robin Hood Multifoods Inc. Reprinted with permission.
For more great recipes, see the Robin Hood Baking Festival Cookbook or visit the Robin Hood website.