kitchen rap

• new to the kitchen
• in the spotlight... Cookware! Your Guide to the Perfect Pot
• Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh's Preparing for the Entertaining Season
• from Kathleen's recipe box... Winter Salad of Fennel, Parmigiano & Prosciutto
• from Kathleen's recipe box... Seared Shrimp with Red Peppers and Parsley
• from Kathleen's recipe box... Warm Glazed Pears with Honey, Walnuts & Double Cream
• from the Robin Hood recipe box... Chocolate Raspberry Layer Bars
• publishing and subscription information

Krups small appliances

Multi-Baker	Rice & Slow Cooker	Coffee Makers	Espresso/Cappuccino Machines

Breville small appliances

Muffin Baker	Juice Extractor	Panini Presses	Electric Wok

The basic forms of the pots and pans which we use in our kitchens every day to prepare our families' meals have changed little over the past hundreds of years. Yet, the materials from which they are constructed have evolved considerably during the past decades, in the never-ending quest to create the perfect pot which would be ideal for all types of cooking. Unfortunately, there is no such thing as the perfect material for cookware. Each has its benefits and drawbacks, and associated cost. It is important, therefore, that you consider your own requirements and select the cookware which is best for you. To help you with this task, here is a brief guide to different cookware materials, along with descriptions of the primary lines of cookware available at Golda's Kitchen.

Cast iron is an excellent conductor of heat, absorbing it slowly and evenly and retaining it well. It is, therefore, excellent for braising and stewing, as well as frying and blackening foods. It responds slowly to changes in temperature, making it less-than-ideal for sauces, and the cast iron reacts with acids (such as tomato sauce) giving them a metallic taste. Cast iron also rusts easily, and must be properly cared for, seasoned, and dried thoroughly. It's heavy weight is also a drawback for many.

An enamel coating over cast iron provides a non-metallic surface which protects the cast iron. Enamel does not interact with food and it is easy to clean. Combined with the heat retention of cast iron, enamelled cast iron cookware is perfect for long-simmering stews, soups, sauces, pot roasts, and casseroles. However, as enamel is a poor conductor of heat, it is not ideal for browning or sautéing.

Carbon steel pans transmit heat well, making them ideal for searing meats and for quickly cooking foods over high heat, such as in a wok. Steel pans, however, can rust, so they must be seasoned and well cared for.

Stainless steel is a combination of carbon steel with chromium and nickel making it rust-resistant. All stainless steel contains 18% chromium. The quality of stainless steel is determined by the nickel content: the more nickel, the higher the quality and the more lustrous and durable a rust-resistant finish. The percentage of nickel can vary from 0 [18/0 stainless steel] to 8 [18/8 stainless steel] to 10 [18/10 stainless steel]. Stainless steel is very versatile: you can cook any food inside it and the pan will not corrode or discolour, nor give the food a metallic taste. In addition, the pan will stay bright and shiny and will resist denting and scratching. Unfortunately, stainless steel is a poor conductor of heat, so it must be combined with other metals (usually copper or aluminum) in order to be effective.

Copper is one of the oldest metals known to mankind. It is exceptionally responsive to heat and is an outstanding conductor, spreading heat quickly and evenly through a pan. It also loses heat quickly when the temperature is lowered or the pan is removed from the burner, making it excellent for delicate sauces or caramelizing sugar. Unfortunately, copper reacts with moisture and salt, and so must be cleaned well and shined (or used) often. With the exception of a few specific purposes (e.g., whipping egg whites) copper pots and pans are lined with another metal (such as tin or stainless steel) to avoid interactions between the copper and foods. Copper is also a very soft metal and scratches easily, and should not be placed in the dishwasher.

Aluminum is one of the most common metals used in producing cookware. Aluminum is a very good conductor of heat, spreading it quickly, evenly, and dependably. It browns food well, making it a good choice for braising and frying, and retains heat for slow-cooking foods. It is also light-weight and fairly strong. However, it reacts with acids and eggs, giving food an off-taste, and corrodes in the presence of acids or salt, causing cookware to become pitted. Thin-gauge aluminum cookware will also heat too quickly, creating hot spots which burn food and cause uneven cooking.

Sandwich bottoms were invented to take advantage of stainless steel's exceptional qualities and make up for its poor heating ability by adding a layer of a good conducting metal like copper or aluminum to the bottom of the pan. The process, known as cladding, involves bonding one layer of metal to another. It makes a huge difference, but only if the sandwich is thick enough to add real conductivity. Because the conductive metal is only on the bottom of the pan, heat does not diffuse well into the pot walls. Heat is also not lost rapidly enough by these pans for use in situations where great temperature sensitivity is required.

Cladding took on new meaning when manufacturers decided to sandwich an entire pot, not just its bottom, by coating highly conductive aluminum or copper pots inside and out with stainless steel. These multi-clad pots and pans function with great efficiency, like their core metals, but have stainless steel's versatility. They have a satisfying weight and their surfaces remain bright and shiny.

Adapted from The New Cooks' Catalogue, edited by Burt Wolf, Emily Aronson, and Florence Fabricant

Sandwich Bottom Cookware:
Cuisinart - Everyday Stainless
	This professional quality stainless steel cookware has a copper sandwich bottom for superior heating. The solid copper ply bottom is permanently bonded to stainless steel for quick and even heat conduction and superior cooking results. Rims are tapered for drip-free pouring, and tight fitting stainless steel lids seal in food's natural juices. Long stainless steel handles and wide hand grips stay cool on the stovetop and are oven safe. The Cuisinart Everyday Stainless cookware is covered by a lifetime warranty. Representative prices: • 2 quart sauce pan: $55.00 • 9½" non-stick skillet: $65.00 • 7 piece set: $200.00 For a limited time, save 15 - 20% on selected Cuisinart - Everyday Stainless sets and open stock cookware
Paderno
	From Canada's only stainless steel cookware manufacturer, Paderno cookware is made of 18/10 polished stainless steel with an aluminum bottom pad that is bonded to the pot to transfer heat into the pot quickly and evenly. The handles are made from stainless steel and are welded in place, so they stay on and stay cool during use. The special curved lip makes it easy to pour liquid from the cookware. The lids are designed to provide a vapour-lock seal. Paderno cookware carries a 25 year warranty. Representative prices: • 2 quart sauce pan: $114.00 • 9½" non-stick skillet: $170.00 • 8 piece set: $483.00 Through Sunday, November 16: • save 40% off the list prices of all Paderno pots, pans, and woks • save 50% on the 6 quart casserole, 9½" non-stick skillet, 9.5 quart roaster, 3 quart stock pot*, and 15 quart stock pot* * supplies are limited; limit one per customer while supplies last
Norpro - Krona
	Norpro's Krona cookware is crafted from 18/10 stainless steel with a tri-ply encapsulated base of 18/10 stainless steel surrounding an aluminum core. This line of specialty cookware includes vented pots and pans which have pouring spouts and heavy-duty tempered glass lids with stainless steel rims and vent and drain holes; you simply turn the lid to seal in steam or expose either the 3 mm or 6 mm straining holes to drain the cooking liquid from pasta or vegetables. The line also includes several multi-function pots with steamer and double boiler inserts, and 5 sizes of stock pots -- from 8 to 20 quarts -- which are available with your choice of tempered glass or stainless steel lids.
Cameron's
	Known primarily for their stovetop smoker, Cameron's also manufactures an extra-large 24 quart stock pot and a multipurpose oval roaster; both the roaster and its lid may be used on the stovetop as well as in the oven. The cookware is crafted from 18/10 stainless steel and has tri-ply encapsulated bases of 18/10 stainless steel surrounding a 5 mm aluminum core.
Multi-Clad Cookware:
Cuisinart - MultiClad Stainless
	This premium cookware features professional triple ply constuction: a core of pure aluminum bonded to a highly polished stainless steel interior and a brushed stainless steel exterior. Designed to provide professional gourmet cooking results, this cookware offers heat surround technology to maintain even heat distribution along the bottoms and side walls of the cookware, eliminating hot spots. Rims are tapered for drip-free pouring, and tight fitting stainless steel lids seal in food's natural juices. The stainless steel handles have thumb rests and are riveted to the cookware bodies for ultimate control when lifting and pouring. The Cuisinart MultiClad Stainless cookware is covered by a lifetime warranty. Representative prices: • 1½ quart sauce pan: $70.00 • 9½" skillet: $80.00 • 7 piece set: $350.00
Cuisinox - Elite
	Cuisinox' Elite cookware is three-ply professional cookware featuring a core of pure aluminum bonded to a stainless steel interior and stainless steel exterior. The cookware offers heat surround technology to maintain even heat distribution along the bottoms and side walls of the cookware, eliminating hot spots. Cast stainless steel handles are permanently attached with stainless steel capped rivets, keeping them cool to the touch. The stainless steel lids have a deep draw to retain food's natural juices. The Cuisinox Elite cookware is covered by a 25 year warranty. Representative prices: • 2 quart sauce pan: $92.50 • 9½" non-stick skillet: $128.00 • 7 piece set: $455.00 Through Sunday, November 16: • save up to 25% off the list prices of all Cuisinox Elite cookware • save 25% on the Cuisinox Elite 7-piece cookware set • save 50% on the 1.4 quart entrée pan, 8" skillet, and 8" non-stick skillet
KitchenAid - Five-Ply Stainless
	KitchenAid's five-ply stainless steel cookware offers the utmost in cooking performance. The stainless steel interiors and exteriors are non-reactive with foods and impervious to staining. A core of three aluminum layers provides perfect, even heat distribution to every inch of the pans. The individually cast long handles are heat resistant and spacious enough for a sure grip, and are triple rivetted to the pans. The lids have a deep draw, nestling inside the rim of the pan for a tight fit. The KitchenAid cookware is covered by a one year full warranty and a lifetime limited warranty. Representative prices: • 10" non-stick skillet: $190.00 • 9 piece set: $1190.00 Save $200 on the KitchenAid Five-Ply Stainless 9-piece cookware set
Copper Cookware:
Mauviel - Cuprinox
	Mauviel's Cuprinox table service cookware offers the precise heat distribution for which copper is known, combined with the ease of use and durability of stainless steel. 1.6 mm thick pure copper is lined with stainless steel inside, with brass handles fixed by stainless steel rivets. Representative prices: • 2 quart sauce pan: $232.00
Mauviel - Gourmet Elite
	A beautiful new line of copper cookware from Mauviel, Gourmet Elite is made of 2.5 mm thick copper lined with stainless steel inside, with ergonomic stainless steel handles riveted to the pot. A non-drip edge makes it convenient to use. Representative prices: • 2 quart sauce pan: $290.00
Non-stick Cookware:
Berndes - Signocast
	Berndes' cast aluminum frying pans and crêpe pans have a three-layer non-stick interior surface to protect foods from sticking and burning and allow you to prepare food with little or no fat. Phenolic black handles stay cool for safe and easy movement of the pan without a potholder, and are oven safe to 450°F. The non-stick surface is guaranteed to never chip, crack, blister, bubble or peel. The frying pans are covered by a 10 year warranty, and the crêpe pans by a 2 year warranty. Representative prices: • 9½" skillet: $110.00
Joyce Chen
	Joyce Chen's professional weight, non-stick woks have a tri-ply construction of 2 layers of aluminum surrounding a carbon steel core. The Excalibur non-stick coating is tough enough to use with metal tools. The non-stick woks are covered by a 25 year warranty.
Cast Iron Cookware:
Benjamin & Medwin
	Benjamin & Medwin's heavy, natural cast iron cookware may be used on the stovetop, in the oven, or over a campfire. When properly seasoned and maintained, the natural stick resistant surface improves with use and eliminates the need for excess grease and oils. Representative prices: • 10½" skillet: $18.00
Le Creuset
	Le Creuset's attractive French ovens and casseroles are ideal for braising meats and vegetables and cooking long-simmering soups or stews, and are elegant enough for serving at the table. The heavy cast iron pots and tight fitting lids provide a blanket of heat which gently and evenly cooks food, sealing in moisture and flavour, whether on the stove or in the oven. The porcelain enamel coating is non-reactive and won't absorb food odours or flavours, and is dishwasher safe. The French ovens, casseroles, sauce pans, and other items are available in a variety of sizes, shapes and colours. Le Creuset cookware is covered by a lifetime warranty. Representative prices: • 2 quart sauce pan: $180.00

Well, the wonderful turkey remnants have been turned into a deep-dish pie and a big stockpot of flavourful broth is simmering on the stove. These are my kitchen indicators that Thanksgiving has come and gone and we have officially kicked off the beginning of the entertaining season that will realistically be with us until the beginning of the new year. And while every magazine and newspaper food section will tell you that planning and preparing foods and special dishes in advance of calendar dates is the best way to cope with all that has to be done, I'm here to tell you that entertaining with style and good food and drink can be a lot simpler than you think. Weeks of planning and days filled with cooking beforehand used to be the way to go -- and, in fact, if you enjoy time spent this way -- as I do -- you'll certainly have the opportunity.

But if spontaneity is on the menu, in the form of quick after-work gatherings or no-fuss, spur-of-the moment weekend dining with good friends and good food is more your style, it really is possible to do it all on the same day. More and more it seems, these days everyone is so pleased to be offered an invitation to dine, that even the simplest meals are met with enthusiasm and approval. My Mum always said that the meals that were pulled together quickly held the most appeal for both cook and eater and she was absolutely right.

Maintaining a well-stocked pantry -- and replenishing items on a regular basis whether you plan to use them immediately or not -- will prove to be an invaluable asset during this busy season and, in fact, throughout the year. Must-have fresh items can be your best friend when pulling something together quickly. Keep onions, potatoes, garlic, lemons, cream cheese and Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padana cheeses, some Prosciutto or bacon, good quality bread, eggs, smoked salmon or other smoked fish like trout, fresh parsley or other herbs and cherry tomatoes on hand.

As for the other invaluable pantry food items, this is the group that I make sure not to do without. These will see to it that you are never far removed from putting together a few great dishes: extra virgin olive oil, balsamic and sherry vinegar, dried chile peppers, quality canned plum tomatoes and puréed tomatoes (called passata), French baguettes (keep well in the freezer, slice and bag if room is at a premium), frozen puff pastry and a box of store-bought pastry shells, an assortment of canned beans, good canned tuna, anchovies and smoked oysters, packets of walnuts or pecans (keep in the freezer), a selection of dry pastas and rices, dried porcini mushrooms and some form of chicken broth, either canned or your own frozen in ice cube trays for ease of use. I choose not to have a freezer full of meat and fish, but a packet or two of frozen shrimp can prove to be quite useful and they thaw so quickly. If you have these sorts of things on hand regularly, all you'll have to do on the way home is pick up a plump little chicken or a chubby set of lamb chops and whatever seasonal vegetable looks good to you.

Have a look at the following menu that will prove as absolutely delicious and satisfying as it is easy to put together, whether on a weeknight or for the weekend.

Until next month, cook and eat with love,

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh

Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh is a Toronto-born food writer whose work has appeared in major Canadian newspapers and magazines. Author of six cookbooks -- Rustic Italian Cooking, The Global Grill, The Sticks & Stones Cookbook (with Ted Reader), The Wine Lover Cooks (with Tony Aspler), Great Potatoes: A Cook's Guide to Over 150 Delicious Recipes, and A Year in Niagara: The People and Food of Wine Country -- she lives with her beau and their black lab and assorted children who come and go, in Niagara wine country.

Winter Salad of Fennel, Parmigiano & Prosciutto

You may use fresh watercress in place of the arugula if you prefer. This is a wonderfully fresh-tasting salad that can be ready in no time at all.

1. Trim and discard the bottom of the fennel and any discoloured bits. Cut the fennel bulbs in half lengthwise and then very thinly slice across the width of each bulb. Place the sliced fennel in a large salad bowl along with the arugula. Drizzle with the 1/3 cup (75 mL) olive oil. Add the salt and pepper and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Toss well.
2. Distribute the greens among 6 salad plates. Loosely arrange slices of prosciutto on each, followed by shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Drizzle the remaining 2 Tbsp (30 mL) olive oil over each salad and serve at once with warmed crusty bread.

Serves 4 - 6

Seared Shrimp with Red Peppers and Parsley

Before you begin this quick recipe, put a saucepan of water (or chicken or vegetable broth) on to boil for some accompanying rice. By the time you have finished the shrimp, the rice should be ready. What could be easier?.

1. Place shrimp in a medium bowl. Sprinkle with salt and allow to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes.
2. In a non-reactive skillet or seasoned shallow earthenware casserole, over medium heat, combine oil, red pepper, garlic, bay leaf and chiles. Toss together and cook for 2 to 3 minutes being careful not to brown the garlic.
3. Increase the heat to medium-high and add shrimp and accumulated juices. Cook for 2 minutes or until the shrimp begin to turn pink and just begin to curl. Remove bay leaf. Add the chopped parsley and toss together.
4. Serve over cooked rice and make sure to include all the pan's juices.

Serves 4

Warm Glazed Pears with Honey, Walnuts & Double Cream

This preparation is so simple it really doesn't even require a formal recipe set-up. I included this in my book A Year in Niagara: The People and Food of Wine Country as a "Simple Seasonal Pleasure" and that is exactly what it is. Very easy and very good. If you can't obtain double cream (usually available in supermarkets in the dairy section), regular whipped cream or quality vanilla ice cream will also work well.

Halve and core 6 ripe pears and brush the cut side with apricot nectar. Roast in a hot oven for about 8 minutes, basting with more of the apricot nectar, until they are beginning to colour and are tender when tested. Serve with a teaspoon of cold double cream in each cavity. Drizzle with warmed honey and toasted walnuts. (A natural with icewine, by the way.)

Chocolate Raspberry Layer Bars

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An attractive bar with a delectable truffle-like taste, these freeze well and are great to have on hand for holiday entertaining.

1. Preheat oven to 375ºF/190C. Grease a 9" square cake pan.
2. In a bowl, combine flour and icing sugar. Cut in butter until mixture is crumbly. Press firmly into greased pan. Bake for 15 - 18 minutes, or until golden.
3. For the filling, spread jam on the warm crust. Melt white chocolate chips. Beat cream cheese and cream in small mixer bowl. Add melted chocolate, beating until smooth. Mix well. Spread evenly over jam. Chill to set, about 1 hour.
4. For the topping, melt semi-sweet chocolate chips and butter together over low heat, stirring until smooth. Spread over filling. Chill until set.

Makes about 24 bars

Recipe © 2003, Robin Hood Multifoods Inc. Reprinted with permission.
For more great recipes, see the Robin Hood Baking Festival Cookbook or visit the Robin Hood website.